Forbidden Vancouver – I’ll drink to that

Posted on May 4, 2013 by Mark

Well crafted prose supported by great images can open up the imagination. Walking through history can help bring a story to life. adding another dimension.

I’m no walking tour junkie however when the chance arose to check out a Forbidden Vancouver tour I thought what better way to learn more about the history of my adopted home. My previous foray’s on foot in Seattle and Downtown Eastside Vancouver were entertaining and informative, so how would Forbidden Vancouver fare? Forbidden Vancouver has been around for less than two years and in that time Will and his team have developed the tours, building something rather special. The website is full of praise, so my expectations were set rather high.

I’m guessing that most cities will have some sort of ‘swept under the rug’ history that whilst being inextricably linked to what the city has evolved in to, would rather be forgotten due to what occurred at the time. With this in mind, Forbidden Vancouver tours seek to hit that sweet spot where people’s curiosity intersects with an interest in history, providing context and a sense of understanding to a particular period in time. However, to be successful, any such tour has to engage and immerse me in the experience.

Forbidden Vancouver tourI’d chosen the Prohibition City tour as the temperance movement that spread across North America in the first quarter of the twentieth century was something that bypassed the UK and I was unfamiliar with that part of my new home’s history. I wanted to know more.

Right from the get go, it was apparent that the evening would be different. Being met by a guy decked out in a mac and trilby set the tone. I was now part of a team of reporters, led by Will. Notepads and pencils were handed out along with instructions to listen carefully and be prepared to answer five searching questions. The bait had been cast and I was hooked.

Over the course of the next 90 minutes I was first transported to late nineteenth century Vancouver, around part of the old Ward Two, discovering how rapid growth during the gold rush led to socialist agitators being ushered out of what had become a hard drinking town. I got to know key characters that took on the establishment and won as well as those that from a questionable past became the establishment.

Forbidden Vancouver tour

The story behind the freely voted for alcohol prohibition in 1917 became clear as did the growth of the ‘Blind Pigs’ and private clubs that served the forbidden liquid. Prohibition’s end in 1921 and the establishment of beer parlours was explained as was the rather surprising left over alcohol licensing laws that still shape how liquor is purchased here (I’d always wondered why I couldn’t pick up a bottle of wine or beer at the local supermarket). There was even time for a tale of Gangsters and Munsters.

Throughout the tour, Will kept his audience involved and entertained. This was not a show and tell tour, it was a participative experience. I was reminded that whilst well crafted prose supported by great images can open up the imagination, walking through history can help bring a story to life. adding another dimension.

I enjoyed my evening Prohibition City tour and the main reason for having a good time was undoubtably Will’s ability to weave together people and places from Vancouver’s prohibition past in to an entertaining experience. Good storytelling needs a theme, some form of plot, strong characters, a well chosen setting and an appropriate style for the chosen audience. My Forbidden Vancouver experience contained all of these elements and I would certainly recommend the tour to anyone wanting to know more about the ‘swept under the rug’ past of the city.

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Nostalgic déjà vu with The Specials

Posted on April 8, 2013 by Mark

If I’d closed my eyes I could have been back in the old country, 34 years ago.

Okay, I’ve no doubt that some would call me a musical dinosaur, however, when I noticed that The Specials, were heading to Vancouver there was no way that I was going to miss the gig. The wonderful, infectious ska beat flows deep within me and I cannot understand anyone that refuses to move to the music. Movement is obligatory. The period that spawned The Specials, The Beat, Madness, The Selector and others remains close to my heart. A period of my younger days that was spent taking in as many gigs as I could afford or get to. Despite my desire for live music, many bands slipped through the net and The Specials were one of those bands that had eluded me. Time to right that particular wrong.

The Specials play the Commodore, VancouverOnce the tickets were secured my mental clock hit rewind and I started to think about what could have been considered as the bands purple period. It was a time in the UK where a deeply unpopular government was in power. A time of recession. A time of class and racial tension. The fusion of infectious dance music with wry observation and acerbic lyrics proved to be a winning formula for the band. Life in grey urban landscapes, the far right in fighting mood and little hope of work could suddenly be danced to. I do wonder how many teens and early twenties of the period even listened to the lyrics. Why bother when it was so easy to be wrapped up in the rhythm. Fast forward thirty plus years and maybe it’s a case of what goes around comes around as I read similar stories of an unpopular Government, division and fraying social fabric in my home land. So, what would a night with The Specials bring, nostalgia or a sense of déjà vu?

A sold out Commodore awaited and after a promising support band, Little Hurricane, who I’m sure have already had enough ‘White Stripes’ comments to last them the rest of their career, the DJ ramped up the ska and reggae sounds to get the audience primed. Before The Specials appeared I have to admit thinking to myself that the Commodore must have been full of mid-life Europeans as I’ve not been to a gig there where at six foot tall I’ve only been the average height. Even though the age range was skewed high, there was still a decent spread of generations. The Specials endure.

The Specials play the Commodore, VancouverBlinds down, curtain up and for me, a generation late, The Specials were on stage. The dance floor erupted, a sea of bobbing heads were in front of me and ‘Do The Dog’ became the first of over twenty songs that threw me back in time with a smile on my face. If I’d closed my eyes I could have been back in the old country, 34 years ago.

Even though the majority of the original band are back together, the absence of Jerry Dammers did leave a sense of not quite being able to check off this particular bucket list band. Having said that, the performance was simply wonderful, the energy is still there and it’s that zest that overrides musical maturity for me. I’ve not seen the floor of the Commodore move so much and I have to wonder how many Chiropracter visits were booked the following week. After all, time does take its toll on the body and there were some mid-lifers there who were absolutely intent on dancing themselves out, and who can blame them.

As the skank down memory lane continued I did have to question how the band felt about songs such as ‘Too Much, Too Young‘. I suppose rather than sing from a peer perspective it could now be sung, at least in part, from a parents point of view. I also found ‘Rat Race‘ somewhat confusing. How many of those on the floor, including myself, had been through the education sausage machine and had been working for the rat race for years. Suddenly a past dig becomes an opportunity to stop and consider where life should be heading rather than accepting the mid-life status quo.

The Specials play the Commodore, VancouverAs with all great times, the evening was over far too quickly. ‘Ghost Town‘ was an obvious encore and I’m once again thinking about how the UK is fairing through prolonged recession, particularly the high street. Clone town UK appears to have suffered from many retail closures and once familiar names have disappeared. Ghost town UK? That feeling of déjà vu again.

In the tranquility of post gig deafness I was left to reflect on seeing a band that in theory had no part in today’s musical landscape. However the reality of a struggling global economy and the growing disparity between those that have and the rest of us make The Specials very much in tune with the times.

A full set of pics are on Flickr

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Getting plugged in to EV’s

Posted on March 24, 2013 by Mark

I sense that the EV future is nearing its tipping point, the current ‘horse drawn carriage’ whilst not obsolete has a fast improving alternative.

One thing I appreciate about living it the Metro Vancouver region is the commitment to sustainability. Part of that commitment from the region and its corporate sponsors is to host sustainability community breakfasts. These free to attend events cover diverse subjects with a focus on developing the region whilst balancing social economic and environmental concerns. Previous meetings presentations are all available online to check out too. The only downside for me is the early start, 7.30am. Still, coffee is on tap and the caffeine jolt along with informative and entertaining speakers can set the day up really well.

I try to keep in touch with what’s happening in the green world and an update on how the Metro area is being charged up for Electric Vehicles (EV’s) was certainly a draw for me. I don’t know much about EVs and if a guy that does sustainability as the day job doesn’t know much, I’m guessing the wider public is at least as uninformed as me.

The first speaker was an EV owner and a teacher from Chilliwack. He positioned himself as just a normal guy, not a deep green Eco-warrior whatsoever. It really didn’t matter where on the green spectrum he was, his enthusiasm for his Nissan Leaf was obvious. He’s used the car a lot over the last eighteen months driving locally and down in to Washington state. In an EV? Really? It turns out that there’s a developing electric highway that will run along the west coast from Whistler to the south of California. At the moment it’s possible to drive as far south as the Oregon/California border in a 100 percent EV. The infrastructure is certainly developing to allow for longer trips which goes some way to addressing one of the major inhibitors to EV ownership, range anxiety. Having said that, the local infrastructure is mainly confined to more urban areas, and even though this is the EV’s home territory, with safe ranges somewhere between 100Km and 160Km (depending upon the charge state of the battery, weather conditions, how one drives, what ancillaries are used and so on), I can understand potential owners still finding range a major stumbling block. Certainly the teacher, Paul, was clear about the need to plan journeys once out of his home area. There again, at this time how many of us really use our cars to travel much further than 100Km a day, and that really should be achievable in an EV.

Another light bulb moment (LED, of course), was discover that ‘there’s an app for that!’ Plugshare allows an EV driver to quickly find public and privately shared charging stations, including the high power, fast charge stations where an 80 percent charge can be achieved in 20 minutes. Another rebuttal for the ‘it takes all day to charge’ naysayers. Paul’s car, the Leaf, also has it’s own app that allows him to check the battery state and turn on the heated seats before he goes out on a cold morning. There’s certainly lots of assistance for EV owners as well as creature comforts.

For Paul, owning an EV appears to be a magical experience. I found his exuberance infectious, he truly loves his Leaf. Even though I could have easily been caught up in the moment, one of the other main barriers to purchase was also mentioned. Cost. EV’s are somewhat stuck in the Catch-22 of limited purchases due to high cost, meaning prices stay high. A vicious circle that relies on early adopters providing the kickstart the markets needs. Unfortunately, buying an EV is considerably more expensive than being the first to own the latest Smartphone and cost surely has to be a significant factor in peoples buying decisions.

The second speaker, the President of Edible Canada may have seem somewhat of a wildcard. What on earth would a restaurant and food entrepreneur have to say about EV’s? In fact Erik Patemen was able to offer a fantastic business case for private enterprises engaging in the nascent EV revolution and installing charging stations at their premises. The fact that Erik’s bistro has a prime location on Granville Island, the second most visited location in Canada from what Erik was saying, more than helps. But his advocacy for providing EV charging as both the right thing to do and fantastic marketing opportunity was absolutely clear. He wanted to offer more patio space for customers, the trade off for Granville Island losing parking stalls was to install EV charging. The fit was perfect. A local, sustainable food business offering prime parking for a more sustainable transport choice. And, when realizing marketing opportunities with the likes of Fisker, a sustainable win/win is secured. Free charging is offered and the cost to the bistro is negligible. The bistro gets kudos and even more green credibility. EV owners get prime parking in a prestigious location.

So two very different views on ‘Charging up the Metro Vancouver region’ The case for the EV had been made as had the business opportunities offered through providing charging. However, what about the infrastructure roll out. What were the realities around providing charging stations. Next up was BC Hydro (BCH).

Alex, the Chief Technical Strategist set the scene. In February of 2013 there were approximately 400 EV’s in BC. All major auto manufacturers would be launching EV’s between 2012 and 2015. The limitations to purchase were confirmed as cost, range, education and infrastructure, all of which were being addressed in this meeting. So, as production increases and education improves the previously mentioned Catch 22 may very well be addressed. That leaves the infrastructure.

BC is fortunate to have access to almost zero emission electricity from hydro sources. Yes, construction of hydro powered generating stations has a range of environmental and social impacts, maybe that another post another day, but it makes BC a perfect environment for EV’s. Once the vehicle’s daily charge comes from coal-fired power stations, the case for EV’s needs closer scrutiny. Again, that’s not for this post. With it’s current Greenhouse Gas (GHG) reduction target and carbon tax, EV’s appear to be well positioned to make a contribution, albeit small, to the GHG target and allow drivers to avoid the carbon tax on gas. The ability to provide enough electricity may just provide BCH with an increasing dilemma. Electricity consumption in the Province is on the up, BCH is trying to educate and encourage customers to use less electricity and a growing EV population will add to the increasing demand. Another supply issue appear to be, as Alex termed it, the last twenty feet of copper. EV’s are mainly charged at home and as more EV’s are bought, the BCH supply network has additional loading to cope with. It seems that plugging in a single EV consumes a similar amount of electricity to a house at peak usage. The lifespan of local, block transformers may be shortened and equipment failures occur the more popular EV’s become. Yet another dilemma to be resolved. One final conundrum that Alex mentioned was the different charging connectors. Emerging technology and competing standards, VHS vs Betamax for the plug-in EV generation.

A short Q&A session wrapped up the morning and I left to ponder the positives and pitfalls of EV ownership. I sense that the EV future is nearing its tipping point, the current ‘horse drawn carriage’ whilst not obsolete has a fast improving alternative. However, despite my own love of technology and sustainability, one of the most significant barriers to ownership, cost, is still the deciding factor for me. I came away far better informed but somewhat frustrated that despite my interest, the technology was still out of reach.

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Eastside Story – Walking Downtown Eastside Vancouver

Posted on March 9, 2013 by Mark

My day job revolves around corporate responsibility, it’s an extension of my personal values. In my own way I try to be the change that Ghandi so gracefully advocated. With that in mind, when I spotted a Down Town East Side (DTES) walking tour on Ethical Deal it was a given that I’d want to find out more about the social issues, that although well documented, can also continue out of sight, out of mind.

The tour was run by JC Tours & Travel a local entrepreneur with a social conscience and a particular interest in the changing social landscape of DTES over the last 30-40 years. The tour James runs is really still in its infancy, starting the tail end of 2012 and will likely grow in terms of content and context as it develops. What I experienced was a good start and I didn’t begrudge parting with a small sum to get to know more about an area of town that, I have to admit, is not one of my most frequently visited places.

The start point turned out to be a former east side icon and now sign of urban regeneration, the old Woodwards site. Built in 1903 as a second location for his department store, the Woodwards building became part of the fabric of the Eastside until its closure due to comapny bankrupcy in 1993. Thirteen years later the building was razed and the site is now home to multiple businesses and SFU.

Sole Food urban farmAlthough James didn’t spend much time on the history of the city, he did say that the shift from the early days core to an area having a more transient population was pretty common for North American cities. I was reminded about some of the tales from the Seattle underground tour. The growth and decline sounded very similar. In Vancouver’s case the decline of DTES seemed to accelerate from the late 1970′s as population growth led to inhabitants migrating to the ever increasing suburbs. Being a port and benefitting from a more temperate climate also made Vancouver attractive to short term residents.

We continued along East Hastings. The stretch from Abbot to Main was teeming with people that are almost certainly living in shelters or are on the street, some out of choice, many through a range of circumstances from losing work to mental illness and drug addiction. It’s a challenging place to be and I can understand why people avoid the area. To be honest its very easy to criticise and make sweeping statements that “something should be done”. The reality is that there is no magic wand and I’ve visited many cities that have areas of high poverty and exclusion. Vancouver is not unique. Despite what some may describe as bleak there are signs of hope and places where people are treated with dignity and I believe it’s important to focus on these positives rather than run down and write off other humans.

I was particularly impressed by the commitment to this difficult area by local entrepreneurs and businesses. Sole Foods urban farms uses vacant lots to grow food as a social enterprise. Pigeon Park Savings is operated in partnership with Vancity and provides basic banking for residents that struggle to qualify for services that many of us take for granted. United We Can and the Pot Luck Cafe are both great examples of social enterprises that aspire to help people break the poverty and exclusion cycle. As excluded as some residents may feel, there is hope here.

The social issues in DTES began to change for the worse in the mid to late 1980′s. During this period the addiction issues started to move from alcohol and ‘soft’ drugs to more destructive substances. The city was preparing for and hosting Expo and even though Expo put Vancouver on the world stage, it seems like the event also indirectly has a lot to answer for. Post Expo, addiction in the DTES increased and this opened up turf wars for drug dealers. Again, these issues are not new or restricted to Vancouver, however, with harder drugs being available, the character of DTES once again changed.

The evolution continued in the 1990′s when changes in health care led to more community based care. The changes led to more people with mental health issues on the street adding to the mix of transient, long term homeless and addiction sufferers. It seems that once an area hits a certain point, community cohesion declines, poverty increases and social issues spiral.

Downtown EastsideOur tour reached the return point around Heatley Avenue and James headed a block north to Cordova. By the time we reached Heatley the difference in places was marked. The streetscape had become less challenging once we’d past Union Gospel Mission, DTES was fading in to the background.

The return journey wasn’t without it’s reminder that we were traveling through a poverty stricken area. The line up for food hand outs at Oppenheimer Park which is located in what was previously known as Japantown, was probably in to three figures. I’m sure the former city mayor whom the park is named after didn’t envisage his name becoming synonamous with poverty and homelessness. On a more positive note, the park is also a home to street soccer in Vancouver. The beautiful game doing what it can do, bringing people together with only a ball needed.

Nearing the end of the tour we passed by Pivot Legal. Pivot are another organization providing services to the DTES community that would normally be out of reach. People stuck in the poverty or homeless cycle are not likely to know their legal rights or have someone to advocate on their behalf. Pivot fill the gap. James also explained that there was a Community Court in the area. Offenders are taken out of the Provincial legal system and outcomes are more community based rather than leading to custodial sentences or un-payable fines. Another laudable initiative in the area.

Carnigie LibraryOur finish point was back at the Woodwards site. James’ aim for the tour is to educate and inform people on how DTES has arrived at where it is today from a social lens rather than focus on the early history. One cannot escape some of the historical buildings of interest, the Carnigie Library for example, but overall I think the tour meets its aim of introducing people to the DTES as it is, warts and all. Thank you JC Tours for taking a different approach and I wish James every success as he develops his business.

Walking away from the area I was left to reflect on the experience. Was I feeling guilt, anger, repulsion, helpless, positive? The truth is probably a blend of those emotions. It’s clear that humans have the capacity to inflict great pain on each other, invariably to satisfy a need for financial gain and this certainly angers me. In this case I want to leave things on a more positive note. The range of charities and social enterprises working in the area shows that those struggling to overcome their challenges, those that want to break the cycle, have options.

As for me, I’ll continue to look for opportunities to be the change. What will you do?

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Riding the PoCo Trail

Posted on February 17, 2013 by Mark

Even though riding the seawall in Stanley Park is special, the PoCo Trail offers a little bit of everything.

I enjoy being on two-wheels. There’s a sense of freedom and I’ve no doubt that memories of childhood days bubble up from the depths of the grey-matter and add to the sensory input. And riding, be it motorized or leg powered offers a lot of sensory input as one smells, hears and feels so much more than when in a car.

Ride the PoCo TrailSince arriving in BC I’ve completed a couple of motorcycle road trips and I expect to tackle another this year. But what to do in the months when the Ducati is taking its well earned winter rest? Cycling is my answer. Even though I’m not hardcore Lycra I really appreciate remaining in touch with two wheeled simplicity so my cycles remain in service.

I’m fortunate enough to live right on the PoCo Trail which offers a fairly easy 26km ride. Even though riding the seawall in Stanley Park is special, the PoCo Trail offers a little bit of everything.

The idea of a PoCo trail came about in 1967, a Canadian centennial project and from the 1970′s onwards, the 26km gradually took shape. The route now rings the city and is more properly known as the Traboulay PoCo Trail in honour of the late Len Traboulay, the former mayor of Port Coquitlam (originally from Trinidad) from 1981 – 2000. There’s a handy downloadable brochure for more information on the route and points of interest. With lots of wildlife spotting opportunities (including joggers), the trail really is a gem.

Riding through Colony Farm Park early on a Sunday morning is bound to throw up wildlife encounters. Back in the UK cycling the North Downs outside Maidstone the wildlife sightings were usually restricted to the odd fox. PoCo Trail on bikesHere it’s a bit different. I was recently greeted by a somewhat bemused looking Coyote, far enough away to stand its ground and not appear threatened by the panting day-glo yellow object travelling through its patch. A little further on and up in the trees is a bald eagle showing more than a passing interest in the fresh meat speeding beneath its perch. Fortunately I’ve never come across a bear and certainly hope my lack of sightings stays that way.

Once through Colony Farm Park and the Kwikwetlem First Nations territory it’s alongside the Coquitlam river, passing downtown PoCo and through wooded trails. Around the end of year the river is teeming with salmon heading home. The river is fairly narrow and the flow can be pretty fast and it’s fascinating watching these amazing fish battle the flow. Across Shaunghessy St and on to Hyde Creek, another place where I can catch sight of salmon during the spawning season. As much as I miss the built environment of the UK and Europe, the natural environment here really is second to none and so accessible.

At the end of the woodland section, on the dykes of Deboville Slough it’s the mountains turn to distract me.

On the PoCo trail

The best time of year for me is winter when it’s cold and clear the views of Golden Ears in particular are spectacular. Snow capped peaks, the Pitt River with a layer of mist hanging. Wonderful. The final leg of this particular journey is actually best travelled in the opposite direction as the views of Golden Ears are probably far better travelling north-east. Still, another day, another ride, counter-clockwise.

The trail never seems to be busy but does seem to be well used. Walk, hike, jog or bike, someone is on the trail taking in the views, exercising or out with their dog. It’s the quietness that sets the PoCo trail apart for me. The Stanley Park seawall ride can become congested, especially in the high tourist season and don’t get me going on the lack of lane discipline as people wander in and out of the bike/blade path. Okay in some ways the comparison is unfair, the PoCo trail is far longer than the seawall. However the Stanley Park views that capture people’s hearts are, for me, matched by the PoCo trails natural beauty.

On the PoCo trailOne of the reasons for relocating was to improve my quality of life. As much as riding the Kentish North Downs had its tranquil moments it struggles to match riding the PoCo trail. Of course the relocation was and is about far more than a bike ride. Having said that, access to such a great ride on the doorstep has certainly helped add to the quality of life I experience as well as meet my two wheeled needs throughout the year.

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No Studs Please, I’m British. The Vancouver Motorcycle Show

Posted on February 3, 2013 by Mark

Large engined cruisers make perfect sense. Well, sort of.

Vancouver Motorcycle ShowI’m not a hardened biker, never have been, never will be. However, I really enjoy riding bikes be they motorized or non-motorized. I’m also a bit a of ‘petrol (gear) head’ so, I wasn’t going to pass up the chance to visit the Vancouver Motorcycle Show to take in the what’s hot on two-wheels.

The show checks all the usual exhibition boxes, dealers, accessories, clothing, special events etc so anyone that’s remotely interested in biking from ‘noob’ to expert, young to old, female and male will likely find something of interest.This annual bike fest is held at the Abbortsford Tradex, a swift 30 minutes down Highway 1 from Port Coquitlam. The site offers easy (if somewhat muddy at this time of year) parking and the show itself fills the halls.

I ride a retro styled Ducati, the GT 1000, and of all the bikes I could have bought I chose the Ducati because it really doesn’t quite fit in. It’s not a sports bike and it’s not a cruiser. It’s lightweight, handles well and looks stunning. I can ride it about town, I can tour on it; and it’s the touring aspect that I wanted to explore whilst at the show.

The GT 1000 to me is every inch a European bike, made for twisty roads and I find it easy to visualize riding the mountain ranges of northern Italy – think the opening of the Italian Job, just on a bike. As mountainous as BC is, the roads here are different. North and south of border there’s a lot of straight to the horizon paving and of course this continent is humongous. Long distance riding is almost a given and it seems that bikes here have evolved with that in mind.

As I made my way around the show, cruisers were everywhere. I guess North American biking has been defined by Harley Davidson and their mile munching high end Glide series (Street, Road and Electra). Needless to say the Hogs were very well represented. However, fifteen years ago, Victory arrived and their bikes must surely give Harley serious competition. The heritage may be missing, but the size and style of the continent crossing cruiser is certainly there. Needless to say Japanese manufacturers, with their own take on the large touring bike, were all represented as well.

Vancouver Motorcycle ShowWhen it comes to the compare and contrast, the North Amercian approach to long distance riding appears, at least to me, to be very different to my more conservative tastes. Like the continent, ‘big’ rules the roost. Long and heavy bikes with large capacity engines are the name of the game. It wasn’t until I tackled my first road trip that I really started to appreciate the point of the large cruiser. Hitting the interstate highways I became acutely aware that my own ride was tiny in comparison to the armchair on wheels low riders that ambled past me. Don’t get me wrong, the Ducati is no slouch and offers pretty relaxed riding. It’s just that these interstate journeys look so much more effortless on the cruiser. On these roads the large engined cruisers make perfect sense. Well, sort of. Although great for the long straight open road, part of the fun of riding is to take advantage of the curves and I’m not convinced that cruisers excel on curves. So although my riding position is more compact, I get to enjoy the thrill of the lean.

Taking another look at the cruisers on display at the show I was reminded that with great size comes great carrying capacity. The panniers and top boxes are immense. True kitchen sink capacity for the rebel with many material needs. Now I have to admit that I chose to add the Ducati side bags to my GT 1000 which at 10 litres each aren’t exactly roomy, however it does force me in to travelling light which has its advantages. A certain amount of style over substance leading to a simpler approach to touring. Vancouver Motorcycle ShowThe other part of carrying capacity, the human cargo is likely to be offered a far more comfortable experience on a cruiser. As much as I’d like to tour with my wife, she’s not too interested in riding a bike and the Ducati isn’t physically large enough for anything more than a day trip. I wouldn’t even think of tackling hundreds of miles two-up. However, on a cruiser I have a suspicion that a ride from Vancouver to San Francisco for example with a passenger would be rather effortless.

Casting my eyes over the cruisers for a final time I remembered another reason for not really hitting it off with these bikes. Studs. Even though my Ducati is styled after the 1970′s GT 750, I don’t consider the bike to be old fashioned in the looks department. I like to think of it as a timeless classic. The cruiser also has a timeless style about it, it’s just that sometimes manufacturers go a little too ‘pony express’ for my liking, metal studs decorating saddles and saddle bags. I suppose not originating from this continent, it really is a case of no studs please I’m British. I just find them too garish, detracting from the actual lines of the bike. Even though I’m a BC Brit, years of old world influence cannot be replaced overnight, and to be honest I doubt there will be a wholesale overwriting of my personal taste.

I enjoyed my time at the Vancouver Motorcycle Show. It’s a great place to catch up on what’s new or even have that opening conversation about bike ownership with an exhibitor. The show is a safe place to browse and dream as well as research the next purchase. Talking of which, am I likely to go cruiser in the future? I can’t honestly say no as I want to take on more road trip challenges which means either a second bike or a larger replacement for the GT 1000. Whatever bike materializes in the future, I can guarantee that it’ll be a stud free zone.

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Becoming Hybrid

Posted on January 20, 2013 by Mark

Rather like the pace of life in the South East of England, my speech was fast, too fast.

Last year I was granted Canadian citizenship and with that I joined the dual nationality club. From time to time I’ve reflected on what being a citizen of two countries means but have never committed my thoughts to a post. Time to rectify that omission, well, at least in part; speech.

Firstly an admission.

“good evening I’m from Essex in case you couldn’t tell. My given name is Dickie, I come from Billericay and I’m doing very well”

WIth thanks to Ian Dury for songs like Billericay Dickie

Actually I’m not from Billericay, nor is my name Dickie, the Essex bit is true though, and I accept that hailing from that particular corner of south-east England opens me up to considerable social stereotyping. Fortunately, that stereotype hasn’t embedded itself outside the ex-pat community and I can live life in BC as just another Brit, untarnished by ‘dodgy geezer’ reputations.

However, after five years in Canada, I’m forced to admit that I’m becoming more and more of a hybrid, particularly when it comes to language. In fact, it’s something I’ve been through before. In my RAF days I was exposed to many regional accents on a daily basis and one could not help but pick up the odd word or phrase or even the intonation of others. Developing a hybrid accent proved helpful when communicating with the regional dolly mixture of people that make up the Forces. It wasn’t a case of intentional mimicry, it just happened over time. And so it is in Canada.

When I first arrived, British English was obviously default and the well known differences, trousers/pants, petrol/gas etc, caused the occasional difficulty as I either trotted out British English or stood speechless as I searched for the appropriate word. It was a conscious effort, but necessary to be understood. The other issue to deal with was the pace of my speech. Rather like the pace of life in the South East of England, my speech was fast, too fast for some people who were busy trying to work out whether I hailed from Australia or New Zealand. “Nope” “Oh, South Africa?” I’m sure many other ex-pats have had a similar conversation. Change had to happen and even though I’ve kicked and screamed at times; how I detest having to call football, soccer to the sportingly challenged, I’m becoming hybrid. The letter T is under threat from aggressive D’s. My R’s are really rolling, quite pirate-esque at times, probably verging on the comedic. But, the blank look received so often in the past is fast diminishing. My former hybrid RAF-ized Estuary-ish (I say ish as I’ve never tended to swap out my ‘th’s’ for ‘ff’s', nor used double negatives) English is morphing in to yet another accent.

To my dismay, the pace of change seems to have accelerated. Home used to be a place where the family would converse in our native language. However, after a few years in the workplace, both my wife and I now regularly use Canadian English at home. Most concerning.

When it comes to speech the other threat to my cultural roots is losing the ability to flip in to passable regional Brit accents. There have been occasions at work where I receive the “So what does someone from Liverpool/Manchester/Birmingham/Bristol speak like?” As the months and years go by it’s becoming increasingly harder to deliver accents on tap, although it’s also nice not to be, as my youngest son once said after a particularly demanding day at school “an English dispensing machine, that’s all I am”. Accent therapy does come via the BBC though. Watching TV from the old country invariably involves parroting what I’m hearing. It’s good to practice, just in case I’m asked to provide an impromptu performance.

I’m left wondering whether I’m becoming more Canadian when it comes to language or am I a complex hybrid, the sum of the many accents and dialects I’ve been exposed to over the years. It was never my intention to be a staunch Brit ex-pat, hanging on to every last drop of Britishness I could, so maybe the changing accent is a sign that I’m integrating, well, mostly. After all, football is football, it’ll never be soccer.

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Cirque du Soleil

Posted on January 3, 2013 by Mark

There are probably not enough superlatives to fairly describe a Cirque du Soleil performance.

The expectation dial was set to eleven. This year the Christmas period would be rounded off with a trip to see a Cirque du Soleil performance. The use of the word ‘legend’ seems to be applied far to frequently these days and it has to be said that cirque shows have attracted a status that nestles neatly in the area of ‘legendary’. Could Amaluna reach those lofty heights?

Cirque du Soleil is one of those institutions that feels like it’s been around for quite some time but I was still surprised to learn that the roots of the company date back to 1984. I was also unaware that Quebec is home to the Cirque empire. As Canadian as the origins are, the performers are drawn from across the globe; and who wouldn’t want to be part of such a very unique experience.

Cirque du Soleil, the big topWhen Cirque du Soleil comes to town the area next to Rodgers Arena (the place where hockey used to be played) is home. That makes it an easy place to reach by car or transit. Parking, well, expect to pay premium prices if you decide to use the site facilities. I found undercover, safe parking a five minute walk away for a quarter of the price. Time to chat with the family about the evening to and from the show and get some fresh air.

Being a corporate treehugger I wasn’t pleased about having to print my tickets so would rather like Cirque scan the jpg on my smartphone in the future. I did however manage to confuse people with my double sided printing, so I’ll call that an honourable draw this time. A quick scan and I was in. The outer tent housing the concessions was, with the exception of picking up a programme, bypassed. I wanted to be entertained and didn’t need beer/pop/snacks to prepare me for the event.

In to the big top and wow, the seats were in a great position. Seven rows back, and an unobstructed view of the ring. Fantastic. A quick and humorous ‘no photo’s', and ‘here are the ways out in case of a problem’ from Deeda the clown and we were off.

Cirque du Soleil, expectant audienceThis Cirque du Soleil production, Amaluna is based loosely on Shakespeare’s ‘The Tempest‘, with a female spin. So, goddesses, lunar cycles, rebirth, and love put to the test are the prominent themes running through the show. However, was a storyline actually needed. Would I enjoy the show any less without a plot. I’m genuinely not sure the absence of a story would have had a detrimental impact for me. The performers feats are truly stunning, in fact, there are probably not enough superlatives to fairly describe a Cirque performance. To be honest, I lost track of time as I became totally mesmerized by feats of skill, athleticism, daring and of course, comedic interludes. From the moment the show started to the grand finale I smiled, I laughed, my jaw dropped, I sat back in awe at what this troupe were capable of. The poise, the strength, the suppleness the spatial awareness, the hand-eye co-ordination of these performers was simply staggering.

Over the course of the show the audience were treated to tumbling, trapeze style rings, teeterboard, asymmetric bars, juggling tightrope, dance and more. There are great bonds formed between artists and audience, helping the mere mortals really feel part of the event. Audience participation is a must, and how the audience reacted.

So, Cirque du Soleil, legendary? Oh yes, I think the term is entirely appropriate. I can’t wait for the next production. I’m hooked.

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Vancouver German Christmas Market

Posted on December 29, 2012 by Mark

Okay, it isn’t the same as wandering the Weinachtsmarkt in the shadow of the centuries old Köln Cathedral, however, there’s a certain charm to the market.

I’d known about the German Christmas Market in Vancouver for a couple of years (it first appeared in 2010) but had never got around to paying it a visit. Despite the indifferent weather, I was determined to check out the 2012 market and I finally made it the weekend before Christmas.

Vancouver Christmas MarketThe market seems to have built up a good reputation for offering something just a bit different and, having experienced markets in Mönchengladbach and Köln a number of years ago, I was curious to see how the Vancouver version stacked up against the real thing.

Finding the market was easy. Right outside the Queen Elizabeth Theatre at Georgia and Hamilton, the market is well placed, just outside the downtown core with easy access by transit and plenty of nearby parking too. Being a relatively new attraction rather than something that is part of the city’s history, the market occupies what is normally open public space, but the area is temporarily walled off. And that leads to the disappointment; of having to pay to enter. I’m sure there are plenty of good reasons for needing to provide financial support, it’s that paying to access a Christmas market just doesn’t feel right to me. I really hope the market thrives, the walls are torn down and that there’s open access in years to come.

I wanted to experience the market after sun-down as that’s when the atmosphere is best, so I arrived late afternoon. As I’d known about paying to enter, I’d taken advantage of a Groupon, getting a fair deal for entry, Glühwein mug, a non-alcoholic beverage to fill said mug and a carousel ride thrown in. Oh, and access to the VIP (pre-paid) entrance too.

Christmas tree guardOnce inside I was transported back in time. The wooden huts, seasonal music, Nussknacker (in fact, plenty of Nussknackers), the smell of Bratwurst and Glühwein and even a smattering of German accents. Okay, it isn’t the same as wandering the Weinachtsmarkt in the shadow of the centuries old Köln Cathedral, however, there’s a certain charm to the market. It works. The mix of wooden ornaments for sale, the traditional foods, the covered, standing tables to eat at, the clink of mugs, wide-eyed children; it all brings out the feel good festive mood. The good mood gets amplified come sun down too. I was wandering between the traders huts, browsing and reflecting on past experience. For fleeting moments I was back in Germany which I guess indicates how Vancouver stacks up against the real thing. Its not Germany but there again it’s not meant to be. The Christmas market is still very Vancouver, the cultural diversity of the city ensures that. However, the west coast replicant does a sterling job of bringing a little bit of Weinachtsten to BC.

So, even if you’ve no need to buy gifts or decorations, it’s worth taking in the sights, smells and sounds of Vancouver Christmas market. Just make sure you sample the Glühwein and Bratwurst.

Find all the pics on Flickr

You’ll also find this post on the Union Jack.

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Seattle underground tour to Twin Peaks tourist

Posted on December 9, 2012 by Mark

Seems like sewing was a very lucrative business in Seattle in the late 1800′s.

I’d seen Seattle from on high, it was now time to check out Seattle from below. The city’s underground tour is based around the Pioneer Square area, one of the oldest districts. However, before going underground, i passed by one of the most prominent landmarks, the Smith Tower. Smith Tower, SeattleThe building which opened in 1914 certainly satisfied by need for architecture with personality. As much as I love the natural environment in my new home, I still miss the built environment of old Europe. Okay, the Smith Tower is barely out of nappies (diapers) when compared to the history that Europe offers, however, it does have a certain unique look with its tower portion extending some 12 levels above the bulk of e building. I didn’t get a chance to go inside and up the the observation deck, but I do think it would be a worthwhile visit and an alternative to the Space Needle.

Just down the hill from the Smith Tower is Pioneer Square. The area lays claim to being Seattles first neighbourhoods and seems to have been through a period of regeneration. Certainly the guide on the tour had plenty to say about the areas ‘seedier’ past, more of that later. The focal point of the square is a pergola which was home to a past street car terminus. Apparently, and I quote the tour guide, “the fanciest subterranean restroom in the country” lies beneath the square, now inaccessible due to the need to make safe the ground around it. Here’s what a 1910 article in a Seattle publication, Pacific Builder and Engineer had to say….

“The man of travels will find nowhere in the Eastern hemisphere a sub-surface public comfort station equal in character to that which has recently been completed in the downtown district of Seattle”

I can’t really add any more to that. Next stop, underground.

Back in the mid 1960′s one Bill Speidel, a local journalist turned PR guy decided that Seattle needed to retain the history it was fast losing. It seems a real case of Joni Mitchell’s ‘paved paradise‘ was being enacted as more old buildings were bought up, razed, and replaced with parking lots. Bill was a real champion for preserving and regenerating the the old downtown area and the underground tour is a result of his drive and enthusiasm. You can read lots more about how Bill’s advocacy and the underground tour on the official site. So what exactly is the underground tour? In 1889 Seattle suffered its own great fire in the downtown area and it turned out to be a great opportunity to deal with issues that the low laying land created, particularly the sewerage. Essentially humongous amounts of earth were slid down from nearby hills to raise the downtown ground level up one story. Brick buildings that remained post fire now had a new basement, and it’s these areas that form the underground tour. The tour takes 60 – 90 minutes and the time simply shot by. Walking through long disused levels of buildings below street level, listening to the guides great stories from Seattle’s past was time well spent. A fun and interesting experience. Now about the booming sewing trade. Around the time of the gold rush, Seattle had set itself up as a staging post. Prospectors that travelled through the city were offered gambling entertainment and were also able to have their ‘clothing repaired’ at one of the numerous sewing establishments. Seems like sewing was a very lucrative business in Seattle in the late 1800′s as the city’s income was bolstered by taxes on these two popular businesses.

It was time to head out of Seattle. I’d thoroughly enjoyed my short stay and will certainly return as there are still sights to see, for example, I want to take a ferry across Puget Sound to Bainbridge Island.

Snoqualmie FallsBefore heading back north there was time for a small detour. I’d found out that I could be a Twin Peaks tourist really easily. Just 30 minutes out of Seattle is Snoqualmie. Cast your mind back to that 90′s, weird, wonderful and surreal TV hit, Twin Peaks. The lodge and falls that appeared in the show are actually at Snoqualmie. Curiosity had gotten the better of me and I wanted to walk in Agent Coopers footsteps.

The experience didn’t disappoint, the falls were truly awesome. The falls are high. Very high. Higher than Niagara, in fact nearly 100 feet higher than the Niagara Falls. The water that rushes over the edge seems to then hit a stage of slow motion around a third of the way down before resuming it’s fast running onslaught. The spray was phenomenal. Despite the viewing area being higher than the falls, it was like walking in to a shower of rain. I could gush on about Snoqualmie Falls for a long time. It captivated me. The elegance and gracefulness of falling water juxtaposed with the raw power at the top and bottom of the falls. It was a very special experience. The Salish Lodge is recognizable as the Great Northern from the outside but over twenty years have passed since the show and it now looks very different inside. I didn’t notice any references to the show whilst wandering the area and I guess that the areas doesn’t need Twin Peaks as pulling power, not when the falls are so spectacular.

It was time to head off and find some “damn fine coffee“.

As usual, more pics are on Flickr.

This post also appears on the Union Jack.

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